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When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred establishments. But, tucked near the top among these culinary titans is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a respected food magazine. This honour has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a sought-after food hotspot, has maintained much of its former feel. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s focused on the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent consistency.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is wrapped tightly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. It is assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s success is set to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.